Joe’s Week 6: Praias, Pizzas e Problemas

Bom dia / boa tarde / boa noite, wherever you are!

Due to general business, and various conference groups using the computers here at the centre, blogging time has once again been short! Wanting to stick to my weekly routine, I owe you two blogs at the moment, and week seven will follow this one as soon as is bloggably possible. For now, here’s a retrospective look at Week 6…

-Slum Problems. Week 6 was when the problems with violence in the favelas here in Santa Teresa really came to the fore. Laura alluded to this in her post, and Joe Howson and Beth furthered her account well - so for more information see that last post and the comments. As a quick summary of a complicated situation (about which I’m no expert), the basic position is that in virtually all of Rio’s favelas, there is a constant tension between the police, and those (many) residents who work in the (lucrative and illegal) drugs trafficking trade. This is a sort of constant underground civil war, which climaxes in serious violence when the police attempt to ‘invade’ a favela in order to combat particular dealers, or to confiscate actual stores or drugs or weapons etc. The most serious problem is that the unit of police that generally invade the slums are the unit that is legally allowed to kill suspects without arrest/detention. Combine this with the facts that the police are not totally trustworthy and that the drugs trade have their own weapons to fight back with, and you have a toxic situation. In this week, such an invasion took place in the favela opposite the centre here, and all the children from the project stayed home on one day, and many stayed home the next. As Beth and Joe have said, the personal danger to myself and Laura is minimal - the convent here is very high, secure, and is respected neutral territory. We are not in direct danger from the police, and whilst gunshots, when they do come, are clearly audible, the favelas, in reality, are very contained environments. But it does vividly highlight the very need for the project to exist. With the money and ’glamour’ involved, it is easy to see how young people from the favelas are attracted to work with the drugs trade. The reason they shouldn’t, even apart from the morality and effects of drug use, is that they are likely to be killed in their young twenties, or at least be arrested long-term.  With regard to this, the most practical aim of the project is to equip the kids with the skills to find an alternative lifestyle to being employed with drugs trafficking, as well as giving them the critical ability to want to.

-Volleyball’s in fashion. Even throughout violent times, the resilient attitude of the kids comes through, and they seem to enjoy sport as much as ever. During this week, we played a lot of volleyball next to the project classrooms, which was good fun, and I received some much needed intensive training. I was more tentative about joining in with their, shall we say, ‘hi-paced’ version of dodgeball, but I eventually got the hang of this too, at least, the dodging part…

-Chocolate Pizza. Ok, on a thoroughly lighter note, in Week 6 Laura and I (notice that grammar, Mum?) experienced our first chocolate pizzas…hurrah! We ate at a place called Parmê, and our selection of delicious ’sweet’ Pizza slices (white/milk/dark chocolate, ice cream, banana etc) followed an equally ravishing main course of more standard savoury varieties. At a funky little outlet called Boomerang Mix (pronounced, Brazilian style, as Boomerangee Meeess), I also had a tasty Banana/Cheese/Cinnamon toastie…extremely normal here - would UK readers think this strange?

Trip to the beach + seafood treats.Beth was, at the weekend, kind enough to take us to a beach just outside of the city, and we enjoyed Bia coming along too. The weather wasn’t perfect, but we made the most of it whilst there, swimming/being buried by waves in the sea, as well as sun bathing (just, not with that much sun) and, obviously, I played a little bit of frisbee on the edge of the water. Afterwards, we went and had some good n’ fresh seafood in a semi-open-air restaurant, soaked in the ambiance and rounded it off with some small locally made ’sweets’ (various small, very sweet, typically Brazilian cakes). Perhaps Beth could help me out on a better description, as well as the name of the beach?  

Mass in the Church of St. Benedict.Well, technically, this city church is actually the ‘chapel’ of the ‘monastery’ of St. Benedict (Mosteiro de São Bento), but that goes without saying. Typical of the larger churches built in Brazil’s colonial times, it’s plain in grey and white stone on the outside, yet stunningly grand on the inside, with gold baroque detail running uninterrupted around the walls and the altar. But that’s pretty obvious too, really. Anyway, each Sunday, one of the Masses there is said with all the traditional, Latin, Gregorian chants incorporated, and so this was a very interesting experience - and a mass said half in Latin and half in Portuguese certainly kept us on our toes.

Ok, a few choice photos:

-Laura enjoys the prospect of a mixed chocolate pizza.

-With our sweet (’Doces’) Pizzas.

-Relaxed atmosphere at the Beach.

-Beach again.

-Altar at the Church.

-Looking above.

-More Baroque detail.

-One of Laura’s shots from further out.

-Sadly, all I know is that this is…a door!

-Another Church we looked into in the ‘Central’ district.

-And from the side…

In reply to the comments from Week 5; I’m not sure what Lenine would think, Mum, about you trying to replicate either his outfits or his musical genius, John will try and sneak you some Guarana back, Jen I will get in touch about that skyping possibility, and Parleck fell…”what the ….”? Everyone - thanks for reading! Appreciate it as always!

Tchau,

Joe

x

5 Responses to “Joe’s Week 6: Praias, Pizzas e Problemas”

  1. Johninho Says:

    Hey Joe,

    Another great blog… it’s been worth the wait.!

    Its good to get a proper understanding of the situation with the slum problems so I must thank yourself, Beth, Joe and Laura for the detailed accounts. It’s also, of course, very reassuring to hear that the danger to yourselves is minimal and that you’re in a safe, secure place. Reading all about it has also made me realise, as you mention, just how important the work of the project is! By educating them and equipping them with so many useful skills you’re guiding them away from an extremely dangerous immoral lifestyle, so what you’re doing (and what Volunteer-In-Brazil continues to do) really is FANTASTIC! Keep up the good work everyone!!

    I have, of course, already been told all about the Chocolate Pizza’s on Skype so my excitement/amazement is somewhat lessened as I read the blog. But just for all those who wanted to know, my initial reaction was something along the lines of… “WHHAAATTT??! WOAHOO!”. Such a delight is something I strive to taste one day… Do they do delivery? (…to Preston)

    I’m exultant (yet, extremely envious) to hear that ocean-side freestyle has been taking place! Memories from Jacksonville come crashing back… Talking of crashing, I hope you made some ‘above the water’ crash-landing Gitis catches :D And did the post-jam succulent seafood surprise live up to the superior standards set by Singleton’s Seafood Shack? (try saying that sentence as fast as you can!)

    The mass at Mosteiro de São Bento sounds like a great experience despite the (slight) language barrier. The golden baroque decor looks grand indeed!

    Great pics as usual! And glad to hear you’re going to try and sneak some Gaurana back for me :)

    Speak soon,
    Hope week 8 is going well!

    John

  2. Jake Says:

    Hi joe,

    this isn’t my main comment, that is to follow. just two things:

    1) After a certain reference to your mother and your infallible grammar, one notes that in the subsequent sentence the use of the present tense “eat” is followed by the past tense.

    2) Spotify was the best thing to ever come out of our friendship. Obviously that isn’t true, but it’s certainly up there with the Chipmunk episodes, Rob and highlighter pens etc.

  3. Beth Says:

    The name of the beach that we were is Grumari and it’s in the western region of Rio de Janeiro. With approximately 2.5 km long, Grumari is not a residential area, being part of an environmental reserve. There are only small buildings called kiosks selling green coconut water and fresh seafood.
    The small very sweet cakes that Joe mentioned, are very popular in Brazil and are always present in all the birthday parties or in the various little shops for snacks throughout the city. They are delicious and I think that Laura and Joe agree with me … as they use to have them every time they can bye them.
    http://novoimages.quebarato.com.br/photos/big/E/D/2D6DED_1.jpg

    Brigadeiros http://chefaporter.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/brigadeiro1.jpg

    Here is the recipe of the Brigadeiro, the most popular docinho (little sweet), the celestial delights
    1 can of condensed milk,
    4 tablespoons of soup well filled with chocolate powder,
    1 teaspoon of butter.
    Put the condensed milk in pan with the chocolate and butter and stir always in low fire until thick enough to see the bottom of the pot when you stir with the spoon. Let cool and make small balls with about a teaspoon full of the cold mass, rolled them in the palm of the hands, which should be coated with a bit of butter. Pass the chocolate balls in granulated chocolate and delight yourself! If you are lazy, eat direct from the pan with a spoon, like children when they do the Brigadeiros themselves…

    Jonhninho, I am very happy with your comment about our work in the project and mainly with the recognition of the importance of the work that the Volunteer-in-Brazil has done through Joe Howson and all who have been devoted to finding resources for this work not stop.

    And don’t worry, I’ll send some Guaraná cans for you!
    Love to all
    Beth

  4. Rose (Jose Mum) Says:

    Hi Super Son…fantastic to read and hey your grammar…a true miracle!!

    Thank God you finally blogged about a church and Mass! You know I was worried when that was missing from USA!! As they say on RTE hope we hear more of that for ‘the week that’s in it’ please!! In other words..Holy Week/Easter! Pity you didn’t get a photo of a nice Brazilian Priest though!
    Maybe when you attend for ‘Easter Duties’ (i.e. Confession)??!! (a little reminder there also for Jake!)

    So many thanks to Brilliant Beth and Bia for taking you and Laura to the beach. I am so jealous and envious and it all looks fantastic..warmer than last time you and I went walking to Formby Sands? Fab photos too!

    We couldn’t mail you your Easter Egg so we have sent you a pressie instead and hope you get it before you travel onwards and upwards?

    Many thanks to John too for so kindly delivering me another 8 Frisbees to send over..they are spinning accross the skies as I type..I hope anyway!

    Meanwhile, McCraves here are still celebrating ‘Our John’s’ fantastic 1st place win in UCLAN’S Got Talent! Congratulations Johninho! So proud of you!

    Keep dancing…

    Huge Hug

    Mum

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