Joe’s Week 5: Christo e Lenine no Rio
Hello again!
Well, it’s about time we had an another installment here. Week 6 is going great so far…but here’s what went on in wk 5: including our visit to one of the most iconic symbols of Rio/Brazil/South America - the statue of Christo Redentor.
-Teaching news. This week, we continue to teach more and more students, particularly as our adult class is ever increasing. So far, we have seven students (from an original 3) in our first night adult English class. 3 project staff members, 2 of the advanced kids, and 2 parents. And now, we’ve also started a new class, as a few more women from the general community of the favelas have asked to join in. Due to the need to start again with the very basics of the language, we’re running that new beginners course simultaneously and separately, with the teaching team of myself and Laura splitting up in order to teach both classes on Mon/Wed/Fri nights. Personally, I’m very pleased with the fact that parents/community members want to sign up, especially as learning English elsewhere is something that would be so out of their range in terms of cost. I can tell from the billboards as we drive around the city that learning English is something that’s in the public consciousness here - both ‘chique’ in that in seems currently in fashion, and also sought after for the connotations it has with getting employment with large international corporations, or in tourism. We also benefit from our teaching too though, as well as being something that is enjoyable in itself, the more we teach, the more (Portuguese) we learn…with having to find the translations for new topics, and having our students help us out with the pronunciation of these!
-Flood-like conditions! Week 6 hasn’t improved monumentally, but the conditions in week 5 really were extreme. We had lots of dramatic cloudscapes, and then, in the hours that followed these, plenty of pounding ‘Chuva’ (rain), along with some of the loudest thunder and most frequent lightning that I’ve ever heard/seen. Thankfully, we remembered to actually close the windows this time - during similar conditions in week 1, I wasn’t quite so resourceful as to think of this, and ended up with a minor flood in the sitting room to show for it. And so, the storms were actually quite enjoyable to behold, even though short walks around the centre necessitated mad dashes instead. Laura took some excellent shots out the sitting room window; see the last two photos.
-Christo! We’re gradually making our way through Rio’s icons…we’ve done Carnival, have Sugar Loaf on the list…but, just recently, have visited the spectacular statue of Christ. It’s recognisable from such great distances, and tends to dominate (with the aforementioned Pão de Açúcar) postcards of the city. It’s visible from the centre here, but, of course, is a miniature detail on the skyline. Hence, even though you know it’s going to be big, the actual size of the statue is the first thing that really takes you by surprise, as the reverse side of it gradually appears through the trees on the ascent up to Corcorvado’s peak. We reached the spot by the obiligatory ‘trem’ (train), that makes it’s way slowly, steadily and steeply up the mountain, and then walked the final steps past the tacky gift shops and up to the platform where the statue is located. Although we went on a weekday, and were told by Beth that it gets much more packed on weekends/holiday times, there was still lots of international tourists -English, American, Italian, Indian, Chinese…and no Brazilians, save for the guides that took various coach groups around, explaining the details of the views. The panoramas were indeed spectacular though, there wasn’t much of Rio that you couldn’t see, particulary as it was a lovely hot, clear day (luckily not one of the stormy times)! The statue itself, was, as you’d expect - stunning…artistic, compelling and intimidating, so recognisable (how long have you had that tiny version in the car, Dad?) and yet so unique. For anyone looking for spiritual value…it’s almost better to look from a distance, without the multi-lingual jostling of position for photographs, but to really appreciate the structure, it has to be seen up close.
Also, I did a video blog from a cafe there: see it HERE.
-Lenine! ‘Christo’ is obvious, but you may be wondering at this stage who/what the other namesake of this blog is. During week 5, on the Saturday night, I was lucky enough to go with Beth to see one of Brazil’s most talented/well-respected/popular contemporary musicians. He’s a solo artist who’s had a long career and sings, does some good verbal percussion (not quite my ba-ba-booo, but close), plays guitar, and writes a lot of songs for other ‘Música Popular Brasileira’ (MPB)/’Brazilian Popular Music’ singers. Since my first week here, Beth has been playing me some of his ‘toons’ in the car, and I’ve grown to like the sound of his voice a lot now, even though I understand few of the lyrics. So, from a musical point of view I was very interested to see this guy, and dutifully did my research on him, and went along to the show, which turned out to be great. We were in the ‘Circo Voador’ (Flying Circus) in the Lapa neighbourhood, a fantastic, domed, semi-indoor music venue, and one of the things that has apparently helped regenerate and rejuvinate Lapa itself; which is now a fashionable, thriving spot for night-life and culture (hence the two blocos I went to there during carnival). I’ve no prior experience to judge it against, but Lenine seemed very ‘on form’ as well. Although he let us wait (concert start time: 10pm, Lenine appears: 12 midnight), he and his backing band were excellent, providing a surprisingly rocky, upbeat set, and working the youthful crowd perfectly, giving us over an hour and a half’s play. Beth: I think I need to pick up a copy of his new album somewhere. Everyone: Check out his excellent WEBSITE.
The photos (click to view or right click/save…as to download)! Choose your wallpaper carefully…
-The train at the ground-level station.
-Some of the dizzying views from the steep train climb.
-Laura standing in front of the amazing views (slightly below Christ).
-Our first glimpse of Christ through the trees and past the tourist shops.
-Laura’s photo looking up at the towering figure.
-Myself trying to get a free slot in front of the statue.
-And Laura attempting to do the same!
-Tourist scene (giving some idea of the statue’s scale).
-My turn to pose (in front of some, er, radio masts).
-Lenine, stutting his stuff again…
Commentors:
Well done to John, congrats on the UGT news! Jake, quite right to point out my helpful South Ribble Band background…though I’m surprised you didn’t mention the ’Sound of Brazil’ in there. Still available on Skype everyone, by the way, for conversations and audio performances of voice percussion. Coffee ice cream is indeed delicious, though it sounds as recently the UK has possibly had more ice-cream suited weather of late. Coming in wk6…we eat Chocolate pizza, and that’s not the only culinary surprise! Joe H - I’ll get back to you with confirmation on NE plans, and will keep an eye out on the national ‘futebol’ situation.
Love to all,
Joe
x
March 24th, 2009 at 09:06 pm
Wow Christo !!
Jose, I have had the mini statue of the Christo in the car since you were born! (well it has been in several cars over that time). It is great that you have now seen it in the flesh or stone! What a joy to get such a great viewing day. The deep blue sky background for Laura’s photos highlights what an incredible, ‘iconic’, in the proper sense of the word, statue it is, and a wild wallpaper as well.
Decorum has returned to our weather with lots of wind and rain recently, but it is amazing how different the weather can be from one day to the next in Rio (reminds me of Preston actually).
Great to hear that there are more and more takers for the ‘chique’ English lessons; it must be fantastic for them to be getting tuition from you and Laura.
Checked out Lenine on his website; wild . The latin drumbeat gives it away as not from these shores; great for a samba party.
Love Dad
March 25th, 2009 at 02:56 pm
Ola José!
The trip to Cristo Redentor looks incredible… such a perfect clear day! Like Greg, I have wasted no time in changing my wallpaper to Laura’s epic/wild photo looking up at the statue! The views look truly stunning.. but then again I suppose you were 2,300ft above sea level (obviously). As a landmark, Cristo is certainly the one that defines Rio for me… probably thanks to it’s presence in my room on a huge door poster (and seeing it on many a journey in your Dad’s car!).
Video Blog #2 was fantastic! I got rather excited as the café at which it was filmed is clearly visible on my aforementioned door poster! I could almost pick out the very umbrella under which you were sitting. I was also excited to see that Guaraná comes in cans… perhaps you could slip one into your suitcase on your way home so a certain Brit can try one
Good to hear about the progression of the teaching classes… you and Laura must be getting quite a good local reputation with all these new starters coming along! Sounds like that aspect of the trip is continuing to be a really rewarding/enjoyable experience! They’ll be wanting an adult frisbee class before long!
The Lenine concert must have been fab! Just to see something in the Circo Voador must have been an experience in itself… it looks like a superb venue on the website. And I’ve just checked out a bit of Lenine himself in full swing - he certainly has an interesting style… did he live up to the monumental standards set by the Sambajazz Trio though?!
Hope week 6/7 goes well!
Tchau for now!
John
March 25th, 2009 at 05:09 pm
Dear Joe
How exciting to talk to you on skype!! It all sounds great and what a good job you must be doing with the teaching. We were looking at the statue of Christ on Johns big poster on the back of his bedroom door and imagining where you were sat for the video. Chris said the view reminded him of Parlick Fell!! He is painting Johns room this week and building new shelfs to accomodate uni life. Now about this fella Lenine, you do realise me and your mum are very good at backing vocals, how many years have you listened to us singing into our hairbrushes on new years eve, if you can get hold of one of his cd’s we will see what we can do for this year.
keep having fun lots of love Gillianxx
March 25th, 2009 at 11:05 pm
Hi Jose
Another fantastic blog well done again son. I guess you are half way through this week? 6 weeks done already! Time flies..in fact did you recall that to-morrow its two years since you passed your driving test! Sorry, I realise that isn’t blog related but then neither are the new shelves in John’s room?!!
John is getting seriously good at Portugese, he’s even e-mailed me some today! I can see he will be in Brazil making a movie before too long! Your photos were all truly stunning and some took my breath away! Not to mention Lenine! How cool and kind of Beth to take you there, such fun with Bia’s Mum (you can explain that fave catch phrase of ours to them!!)
I did say to you on Skype that the video was very ’shakey’ again but I apologise as it is but ONLY on my poor old PC..on Dad’s flashy one it ain’t!
Gotta go…need to look on net for hire of Lenine outfits!!!!!!
PS. I saw your friend Zac Efron on the side of a bus today..advertising his next film…bet you haven’t seen that in Rio?! Or have you?
Um Grande Abraco!
March 27th, 2009 at 12:25 am
Hi Joe.
When can I skype avec your goodself?
I will comment on you blog soon, (and once I have read it..) but for now, I would express my upmost thanks for the vidoe blog. It was MAGNIFICANT. The view, the cool energy drink, the camera work, and the little synopsis at the side of the screen. Safe.
Jen xxx
March 27th, 2009 at 12:28 pm
Hello Joe, well…… read all that and listened and admired all photos, all looks FAB !! Keep up the good work and enjoy, must go for a lie down now! oh no back to work. Take care Maxine x